Kerala, South is our Mission (Tea Pot & Palm Toddy)

KERALA, SOUTH IS OUR MISSION


FORT KOCHI-SPECIAL TEA! (BEER IN A TEAPOT)

Our first stop in the state of Kerala was Kochi (Cochin), which is a great gateway to the Malabar Coast and the relaxed life that Kerala is famous for.
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Fort Kochi is the old town which is separated from the mainland by islands and is said to be one of the most charming towns in India where Christians, Jews, Muslims and Hindus live in much greater harmony than they seem to manage anywhere else.

Ferry crossing to Cochin, what a sunset

We arrived off the ferry in pitch darkness and somehow with the help of the Lonely Planet bible managed to check into the Princess Inn which was a great place run by Freddy who looked just like Freddie Mercury. I never did ask him if that was his idol!!! Freddy was great and full of use full information for once, which gave us a plan of attack for exploring.

Drained after another gruelling journey we settled for being proper English. You might be able to take the English out of England but you can’t take England out of the English. Chip butty in nan bread it was, and what a treat after we got ripped off on the train with the most expensive dish on the menu even though we didn’t actually get chance to see the menu. Indian Rail who’ve just got to love it.

Fort Cochin turned out to be an interesting few days. We had a great day exploring the island once we had been collared by Ashok the Friendly Tourist Rickshaw Driver, as stated on his business card. He even showed us a newspaper cutting telling us just how good a guide he was. Well you couldn’t argue with that especially when he said we could pay him what we thought was fair. He obviously didn’t know just how tight we are!

So after I had consumed a pot of freshly ground coffee, the morning caffeine kick, Ashok filled our minds with his local knowledge showing us some great sights that are not in the guide book. We visited a washing centre where people beat the clothes clean, hung them to dry in the largest back garden you have ever seen before ironing them perfectly with a coconut burning iron that weighed more than a truck.

Beats a washing machine

He explained religion, marriage and the football pitches left by the British back in the day. ‘Don’t you know we only play cricket?’ Next was a spice warehouse where they bleached and dried ginger before showing us some churches, temples and even his old school.

Locals drying ginger after bleeching

We travelled through narrow bustling streets to visit the Dutch Palace, which was a walk through history before the rickshaw ground to a halt at the famous Chinese fishing nets. Our tour came to an end after just 2 hours after being taken to some shops as you would expect. A little uncomfortable but at least Ashok got a tank of free fuel. The experience was worth every penny, and it was great to finally be in the company of a local where we could ask questions and learn about India and its cultures.

Ashok the Friendly Rickshaw Driver, Legend!

The afternoon was finished with a trip to the fishermen’s beautiful cantilevered Chinese dipping nets, a system imported from the China seas where fishermen sling nets over a pyramid of four poles which is then lowered into the water and hoisted out again by a system of rock weights and pulleys.

Chinese Dipping Nets

Today's catch just in

For me the best part of the day was still to come and it was an experience I prayed was fact and not fiction. After hearing from people and reading it in a guide book of all places we managed to find a restaurant called Salt & Pepper in the evening. Once I had looked over the menu I couldn’t see beer anywhere not even Kingfisher. One thing about Fort Cochin is that it is pretty dry. Not because of religious beliefs as you would expect but because you need an alcohol licence which is very expensive. I nervously asked the waiter in a faint whisper if they had any beer. He looked at me with a smile and said ‘do you mean special tea?’ Thinking what the hell I said yes. He ran out of the restaurant which seemed strange especially when there was only me and Kate in the place. He returned some ten minutes later and vanished into the kitchen before arriving at our table with a teapot and two mugs. We got our Kingfisher Premium Lager the whole 650ml (from the shop across the street), served to us in a teapot. Absolute genius and I must say a first for me. I am not going to go into telling you about the beer or the food even though the Pakora was divine. Beer served in a teapot with a mug you usually enjoy your morning brew out of. Just brilliant and the porcelain pot even kept the beer chilled. I could see a beer concept developing before my very eyes.

So this is what he meant by Special Tea!

Still truly buzzing from the beer teapot, we still had much more local exploring to accomplish and in the old town there was much to see. Funnily enough the following day started in a cafe called the teapot, which was just beautiful. No beer though. A coincidence so we settled for chocolate cake for breakfast. Named Death by Chocolate and it was heavenly.

The coolest Tea shop in the World

Not a bad way to go. Death by Chocolate!

 The local sights were visited during the day in a Monsoon downpour still no umbrella. Very wet but great to see some history like the Portuguese Museum, Dutch Cemetery, Santa Cruz Brazillica and St Francis’s Church, before stopping for a late afternoon lunch at the Kashi Art Cafe. More chocolate cake! What a diet. But I suppose if you can why not.

Santa Cruz Brazillica



Forgot to mention I should never have had that Special Tea!!!



It's OK though. Gandhi also stayed here

Kate actually wanted to stay. Signed in and everything

An historical cultural day was topped off with a visit to the Kerala Kathakali Cultural Centre. Traditional dance was on show for an hour which was a short version. We had been told that going to the three hour show was like losing three hours of your life, which you will never get back. The one hour version was great with local dance, where a story is told through movement and hand signals with no dialect. It did however include a backing singer, drummer and would be rap artist. Very cool sound.

Local Kathakali dance and the band members

No idea what the hand movements mean but still great!

Fancy seeing Oz again. Loving the Special Tea

ALLEPPEY-CRUISING KERALA’S BACKWATERS (PALM TODDY BEER)

Our next stop south in Kerala following two bumping local bus journeys with the bus driver’s manoeuvring the huge modes of transport through the traffic like they were on a motorbike left us with our eyes closed for most of the trip. Alive we arrived in the small town of Alleppey and checked into the Gowri Home stay, in a bamboo hut in the back of a jungle garden.

Our jungle hut at the Gowri. Mozzy mayhem

It was a whistle stop tour to cruise the back waters of Alleppey in a little canoe, just me Kate and our guide Shizu. The day started on the river bank at his father’s house for breakfast of duba pancakes, lentil curry and masala tea. The spice blew your head off. Especially with it being the first meal of the day. It had Kate gagging but she was a trouper.

The Kerala breakfast. Look no cutlery!

We headed out onto the quiet peaceful waters; with Shizu bless him paddling us all day with no help of powered motors. At least we were doing our bit for the environment! We saw people washing clothes, bathing, brushing teeth and cleaning kitchen utensils along the riverside communities as we passed.
It was festival day in the backwater villages where we climbed out of the canoe to see temples a school and the rice paddy fields.

Man washing the family dog

Daily life goes on

The rice paddy fields

Backwater School

Lunch was at Shizu’s auntie’s house which was another great experience of the local delicacies. Served on a banana leaf in her front room were homemade, South Indian Tali. It consisted of small portions of rice, vegetable curry, pickle, potato salad Keralan style and a papadum to round it off.

Lunch time at Auntie Shizu's

The afternoon brought more sites of the beautiful backwater communities, and with the festival music being played over loud speakers I had visions from the film Apocalypse Now, cruising slowly through the surreal landscape.

Cruising the Alleppey Backwaters

Dressed for Festival Day

Ready to set sail for the afternoon

Famous to the backwaters is the Palm Toddy Beer. The riverside was closed for the holiday and we’d thought we’d missed our chance until we came across an amazing sight. We saw a seventy year old man (at least) climbing the tall slender palm trees. We weren’t able to try the beverage this time but it was amazing to watch the professional at work, tapping the palms flower to release the naturally fermented liquid said to be by the locals 2% Abv. This guy spent his days climbing up and down palm trees without equipment apart from his machete.

Up he goes! The Palm Todd Beer Professional

Me and Mr Palm Toddy

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palm_wine#Tapping

The whole day was an amazing experience where we felt lucky to have such a great fun guide who welcomed us into his family’s homes to meet his family members, who showed us great hospitality and local cuisine.

Shizu the perfect guide and gentleman!

Don’t think we will be trying the local breakfast anytime soon. Curry and rice at 9am just doesn’t quite work for us. Bring back the omelette.

VARKALA-LIVING ON THE CLIFF TOPS (KINGFISHER LAGER UNDERCOVER)

Another two public buses this time from Alleppey, we arrived in Varkala. A rickshaw was needed to reach our destination on the cliff tops. Being as stubborn as ever and bartering over 10p we set off walking the supposed 7km with our rucksacks in the blistering heat. In the end not saving ourselves any money but now dehydrated and covered in sweat, a rickshaw was finally flagged down to get us to the heliport.

Found a lovely place to stay on the cliffs. We headed out to find our bearings to discover that Varkala was just a breathtaking place. You hear about it being set on the cliff tops but the village is actually set right on the cliffs edge, lined with cool chilled out bars, restaurants, guesthouses and stalls.

The cliffs of Varkala

Welcome to my office

The beautiful cliff sunset!

 This ones for the guys at home. How could I resist. Hello to Different World Drinks Co xx Only one thing missing in this cafe and that would be an actual Blue Moon.
http://www.bluemoonbrewingcompany.co.uk/

What I would do for a Blue Moon right this second!!!

We had an amazing few days finally getting the chance to relax on the beach, allowing the sun to reach our white reflective bodies.

Its nice to be at the beach

Swimming for your life at Varkala

The days were spent under the cliffs on the small secluded beaches where you had to battle the huge powerful waves while swimming, hoping not to drown. The evenings were spent eating great food all be it more pizza and some Tibetan cuisine like momo’s, which are small dumpling steamed parcels, absolutely lovely.

You must try Tibetan Momo's

Once again beer was available and always Kingfisher, but again with no licenses, instead of teapots the waiters would pour your beer into a coffee mug with the bottle wrapped in a paper bag and hide it under your seat. Feeling like a bit of a wino you enjoyed none the less. These new creative ways of serving beer! It just makes going to the bar and choosing one out of the fridge boring. Maybe some creativity in the west is needed.

Quick get that strange looking bottle under the table, quick sharp!

TRIVANDRUM-THANK GOD FOR NEYYAR DAM (BEER JUST A NONE ENTITY)

Our last stop in Kerala was the state’s Capital City of Trivandrum. A one hour train journey from Varkala, packed onto the train without a seat next to the stinky toilets. When we arrived, we staggered around at least six different hostels up very steep hills in crazy traffic with no pavements until we finally checked into Kuckies Holiday Hotel. The reason this place was cheap was because it was GRIM! We did however discover our dental floss skills for tying up our mosquito net by any means necessary.

GRIM!!!

Dental Floss Genius

Our impressions of Trivandrum, after spending the afternoon walking miles and miles in the pouring rain was what a hell whole. Maybe we had been spoilt in Varkala and hitting the Indian mayhem again was a little culture shock. Or maybe not realising Monday was like our Sunday’s all the places we tried to visit culturally were closed, and the amazingly, beautifully crafted temple had a green tablecloth over it when we tried to have a look. Maybe it just wasn’t our day. Oh and of course did I mention the awful room, crazy traffic with no pavements and flooding streets?

That just sums up today. A green table cloth on the Temple!!!

There was a reason to visit this place after all and that was the gateway to Neyyar Dam National Park.

The actual Neyyar Dam

The day at Neyyar Dam after trying to find the correct bus stop was great. We saw the giant dam and went on a boat trip across the lake, where we visited a Lion Park, Deer Park and Steve Irwin’s Crocodile Park. Might not have been linked to the Steve Irwin, but some effort was put into making you think that. Especially the sign when you enter the enclosure.

Scary and Amazing

The Crocs!

Legend, Steve Irwin

He nearly took my hand clean off!

Being touched up by an Elephant

Now blessed by an Elephant

Just an amazing experience shared!!!

A great day was had by all, which left us with just one more night to endure in the beautiful city of Trivandrum. A little sarcasm needed. This was helped with the highlight for me. Supermarket!!! That included a fantastic bakery where were able to enjoy crisp sandwiches for our tea. Now that’s budgeting backpacker style.

No beer enjoyed in Trivandrum so apologies for that, now let’s get out of here.

Farewell Trivandrum

The beautiful, interesting state of Kerala is now closed!!!