Thursday, April 14, 2011

Thailand, Phuket to Koh Tao-The South Islands (Singha, Chang, Song Sam Buckets)

PHUKET TOWN (SINGHA BEER)

We arrived in Phuket Town following our two hour flight from Singapore which was followed by a local one hour bus journey south. Deciding to stay away from some of the more touristy beaches on Phuket namely Hat Patong we had heard that the town was a great place to set up base for a day with it being the main backpacker departure point for the island of Ko Phi Phi our next destination.

Phuket Town-We are officially in Thailand
Phuket is said to be a near cousin to Penang in Malaysia with its old Sino-Portuguese architecture and upon arrival it instantly reminded us of Georgetown. With just one day planned we explored the town with its quaint little streets after checking into the On-On Hotel which is the place where they filmed the Beach. Back to Ducky again and this whole area of Thailand is where the film was produced. The accommodation was great and looked just like on the film set with dark wooden stairs and narrow corridors with the partitioned walls that didn’t quite reach the ceiling. The place was bursting with character in the centre of town and was really cheap which was surprising, only 180 BHT, £3 per night.
We could be in Georgetown, Malaysia but we are not!

Old School Guest House

I've heard of this place before
Pretty sure I've seen it somewhere as well

Not quite Di Caprio, but welcome to The Beach
With one night only in Phuket town we managed to purchase our ferry tickets to Ko Phi Phi the following afternoon with a free drop off at the ferry port from On-On before finding a nice little restaurant to sample our first Thai meal and beer. The bar ended up being called Anfield with the staff being huge Liverpool F.C fans and tonight it was Manchester United versus Liverpool. The place was packed with locals getting ready for the game while starting their first of many whisky buckets. Kate and I settled for a couple of large Singha beers in nice chilled branded glassware which went down perfectly with our first Pad Thai’s. The food was amazing as we had hoped and so was the beer. To round things off United won the game, so we made a sharp exit at the final whistle. It might have only been one day in Phuket Town but already some great memories. We have a feeling Thailand might end up being a pretty enjoyable country.

Welcome to Anfield

Our first Pad Thai-Yum Yum
SINGHA, PILSNER BEER, THAILAND, 5% ABV
Boon Rawd, the owners of Singha set up the first ever brewery on the same site in Thailand in 1933.  It was selected from countless competing recipes by the last King of Siam and the people of Thailand. Singha Beer was launched internationally in the 1970’s and is now enjoyed in over 50 markets around the globe.

Following an application to the government to create the first Thai local beer the Singha brewery was founded by Boonrawd Srethabutra in 1930.  He worked with the world’s finest master brewers and the people of Thailand to craft the unique Singha recipe and the first bottle was produced in 1933.  For his services HM King Prajadhipok Rama VII bestowed on Boonrawd the aristocratic title of Phraya Bhirom Bhakdi.

The Singha brand name is part of 7th century Asian mythology and roughly translated in Thai culture refers to a mythical lion.

Boon Rawd the owners of the Singha brand  name is still owned and managed today by the 3rd and 4th generations of Bhirom Bhakdi family and has become part of the nation’s heritage and pride.

Boon Rawd in his youth went on many European adventures and was educated (as was the tradition at the time) by Buddhist Monks.  This developed both his sense of bringing together experts from different backgrounds to develop his vision, challenging the expected but also a quiet dedication.

So with a history spanning over 75 years, Singha Beer is the true pioneer of Thai brewing. At 5% ABV this Pilsner Style Blonde Beer is a full bodied, barley malt beer that is distinctly rich yet clean in taste with a strong hop character thanks to the finest ingredients including Saaz Hops from the Zatec Region of the Czech Republic. On a final note it was an amazing accompaniment to our first Pad Thai with the strong hoppy bitterness combining perfectly with the local spices, which were not very mild. 
Frosted Glass. I've been waiting for this bad boy

Nearly There...

Now that was an awesome beer

Thai Buddhist Temple

Some culture before the next destination
KO PHI-PHI (SONG SAM BUCKETS-WHISKEY OR RUM?)
Our free pick up from On-On Hotel was late the following day which had me running to the travel agent to find out what was going on. After showing myself up I arrived back to see a full mini-van waiting for me. Good work Reedy. Not to worry though apparently the ferry won’t set off until everybody is there.

The reason for this was quite apparent. Once on deck we set sail for the one and a half hour crossing and we couldn’t believe our eyes. In the whole time we had been away we had never seen so many travellers in the same place. There were hundreds and it dawned on us that was because the backpacker contingent of the world, were all in Thailand. With people playing guitar, music from portable speakers and beer being consumed in large quantities at every turn we relaxed on deck in the sunshine looking at the beautiful scenery while trying to put out of our minds the football sized jelly fish in the ocean.

We climb aboard the ferry to Phi-Phi Island

This is where all the backpackers on the planet have been hiding out!
Thailand was instantly very different and the busyness didn’t calm down once we arrived on the small island. It felt like we were arriving at a festival and it was definitely peak season. After hours of searching with all accommodation either full or extortionatly priced we finally checked into Rungtawan Guest House. It was the cheapest place we could find for £12 per night and it was awful. It seemed that new aged backpackers can pay £50 per night no problem but not us. Maybe Thailand or especially the islands were going to be quite expensive.

Entering Phi-Phi Awesome

Shame about the Accomodation. You can actually peel back the walls and take a look next door
With being a party island there was just one thing for it, time for a night out and Thai buckets. Now walking the streets at night is like being in Ibiza. The narrow sandy lanes are full of European ticket touts trying to get you in the bars with ridiculous drinks offers while the dance techno music booms out in the background. We decided to spend the night down at the beach bars enjoying the awesome fire shows while we managed to get through two buckets each. Two buckets for £6 and that is all that you need.
The sandy nightlife island streets

One of the many crazy ticket touts

Enough said-BYO!

Spectacular Beach Fire Show

SONG SAM BUCKETS, THAILAND, LETHAL COCKTAIL STYLE, ABV & CAFFEINE CONTENT UNKNOWN

The buckets consist of a 250ml bottle of local liquor poured into a little sand castle bucket over ice where you then empty out a bottle of crazy Thai Red Bull and a Coca-Cola or Sprite. Song Sam was our spirit of choice and contrary to what people think it is rum and not a whisky. With a handful of straws you set to work and they were far too easy to drink.

My choice was Song Sam Rum with Coca Cola & Red Bull

Kate went for Song Sam Rum with Sprite & Red Bull

Where the Parties are at-Cool
The music and the entertainment was great including people staggering around with buckets in hand. We did however end up having a moral breakdown. As the early hours set in we met two guys who worked for the bars. Nice enough to have a conversation with but then the unthinkable happened. One of them decided to rag off or should I say undress a sleeping male right behind us. The poor guy didn’t move and was just left in the sand in all his glory. Where were his friends and why didn’t we do anything. Feeling ashamed we blame our first experience on the deadly bucket and we also learnt something new. Some advice to you all! Never consume too much alcohol that you have no idea what you are doing. Be safe and never for any reason think falling asleep on the beach is a good idea!!!
Overall an entertaining night out on our first island and our final day on Phi Phi Don was mainly spent recovering from our hangovers on the beach. During the day time hours the island is very chilled out like you would expect but the place is beyond busy especially at peak season January to March. At the beach you struggled to even find an area of sand to put a towel down. Famous for The Beach over the years the place has been hit by tourism big time and since the devastation of the Tsunami it has rebuilt itself to an extreme. There seems to be more than 50% more tourist on the island than the island can actually cope with but there is a different side if you take that out of the equation.

Busy Beach Recovery on the White Sands
Not a bad view either
Ko Phi-Phi is an island of jaw dropping beauty with white sandy beaches, crystal clear tropical waters and a stunning backdrop of limestone cliffs. It really is a paradise, but remember it is a 24/7 party paradise, and if this is what you are looking for go right ahead you’ll have a blast.

Phi-Phi is a truely Beautiful Island
Being far too expensive for us two days was the maximum and it was time to move on. We had decided to cross back to the mainland and head for Krabi.
Back on the open water towards the main land and Krabi

KRABI TOWN (CHANG BEER)

With another two hour ferry crossing back to the mainland we wave goodbye to the beautiful limestone bay of Ko Phi Phi and the thousands of party dwellers, before stepping off another overflowing backpacker ferry in Krabi Town.
We arrive and take a stroll in Krabi Town
Like Phuket town we had decided to use the town as a one day stop over before making our way east to the island of Koh Tao. After arriving at the ferry terminal which was situated just out of town we had half an hour of feeling like we were back in India. The taxi drivers were trying to overcharge but wouldn’t barter and we were told there were no public buses. Being us we even set off and contemplated walking before saying to hell with it and jumped in a taxi. I ended up bartering over ten pence just to make myself feel better and it did especially when we turned the corner to arrive in town. He told us we were 10km away! The Lonely Planet, South East Asia on a Shoe String needs to add more maps and less information.

In the centre of town and with no idea where we were we decided to approach a traveller to ask if he knew where some nice cheap accommodation was. He ended up being a lovely guy from Sweden who knew Krabi Town well and he helped us to check into The Grand Tower Hotel, a basic room with nice friendly staff and only £3 per night. Everything works out in the end.
Grand Tower-Basic but cheap

Studying local maps in our room. Not realising it was situated right in the bar area, noisy!!!
Krabi Town is a lovely relaxed little place a million miles away from Phi Phi and we spent the afternoon wandering the streets and the riverside.

The streets of Krabi Town

Brushes for Sale

Random Monkey Traffic Lights
It was beer time and with a sunset view we climbed to the roof terrace of a pretty snazzy hostel where we enjoyed our first Chang Beer which was kept cold with a cool San Miguel Light stubby holder.
Beer View

Chang Beer in the San Miguel Light Stubby Holder

Beautiful Sunset
While on the drink subject. I spotted a Singha/Man Utd Promotion. Very clever marketing

They even produce their very own drinking water

CHANG BEER, BLONDE LAGER, THAILAND, 6.4% ABV (DOMESTIC)

Chang Beer is brewed by Cosmos Brewery (Thai Beverage PLC) one of the largest beverage alcohol companies in South East Asia. It also owns and distributes some significant brands including Chang and spirits such as Mekhong Whiskey and Song Sam Rum. Chang was first brewed in 1995 at the brewery in Bang Ban, Ayutthaya Province. The 6.4% ABV product is brewed for the domestic market where as the export is brewed at 5% ABV. The two versions are also different beers with the export being a 100% malt beer like its domestic draught while the domestic bottled product also contains some rice. As well as Chang the brewery introduced Archa Beer in 2004 as well as Chang Light and Chang Draught in bottles.

The two white elephants on the Chang beer logo symbolise happiness, harmony and prosperity and the name Chang itself means elephant in Thai. Chang beer is a combination of Thailand’s plentiful resources creating an authentic Thai beer with international quality and a clear uniqueness.

Great care and attention was given to creating the right blend of ingredients that would complement an array of spicy foods.

Quick to become one of the leading South-East Asian brands, Chang uses deep well-water to achieve its perfect composition. The deep well water used to brew Chang beer is so pure it is bottled and sold in Thailand as mineral water.

The Chang beer brand remarkably, within only four years became the number one selling beer brand in Thailand, achieving a market share of more than 50%. Today, Chang has an increasing presence throughout Asia and the rest of the world.

There is quite a lot of spiel above and I have no doubt that over a pretty short period of time in the world of beer Chang has had some major growth and success. Here’s what I think after my tasting of the 330ml bottle Chang Classic which I think is the domestic version.

After pouring, Chang seemed to have a minimal head with extremely light carbonation. It was transparent in colour with quite a weak vision of gold. The beer was nice and mild and had a toasted malt flavour which was pleasant and the high alcohol presence is apparent. The balance seemed to be lacking with too much bitterness, sourness in the aftermath. Overall Chang is not a bad beer, but maybe not the best brew to come out of Thailand. The word on the street however especially amongst the backpacker contingent is that Chang is the beer of choice. Maybe not always for quality but it is better priced to the masses and a lot stronger than its competitors. You get the drift.
Domestic Chang Beer

Rehydrated we had dinner at the local night market on the riverside, which was very cool. Very busy with people eating and there was just so much choice that we went buffet style. Quail Eggs that were unbelievably tasty were followed by BBQ Chicken Satay Skewers and then a Pad Thai, great street food yet again.
Quail Eggs
Chicken Satay Skewers

Night Food Market


Tucking into my Pad Thai

Seriously struggling with the spice factor
With an early start in the morning we head back to the Grand for some much needed shut eye, to find that our cheap room was cheap for a reason. It was actually in the middle of the bar and even though there was only two customers and the bartender it felt like we were in a night club. Oh well only one night and at 5.30am the alarm sounded for another day of travel. Luckily the old lady at the hotel made us some toast and a cup of tea before we were collected.

We headed across to Surat Thani on the east coast, which was where we boarded yet another ferry this time to the island of Koh Tao. The whole journey took us ten hours passing the islands of Koh Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan which is where the Full Moon Party is held. The ferry crossing was a little uncomfortable as the weather was wet and windy especially when you had to stand on deck and grin and bear it. This was due to the ferry being packed again and the VIP seating area having an additional cost. This room was obviously empty as everybody decided to just get wet.

Use to the travel by now we docked at Koh Tao very excited. We would be surprising Gemma one of Kate’s sisters best friends who was a scuba instructor here and I really wanted to do my PADI Open Water Course.

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