Friday, February 18, 2011

Lombok to Flores, Hunting for Komodo by Camera (Anker Beer)

Following a great Christmas next on the holiday season agenda was a three day boat trip from the island of Lombok to Flores courtesy of Perama Tours which is said to be the best tour operator in the area based in Kuta, Bali.
We made our way by small boat from Gili T to Lombok, before joining our tour group in Senggigi, which turned out to be a varied bunch of people from small children to pensioners and from a selection of countries including France, USA, Germany, Hungary, Spain and of course England.
Goodbye Gili Trawangan

The 3 Gili Islands of Trawangan, Mino & Air as we head to Lombok
Before climbing aboard the old school sail boat/pirate ship we had to travel across the island of Lombok which turned out to be a beautiful island. It was just a shame that the heavens opened and we saw the green lush scenery through the pouring rain. We did however manage to stop at a traditional village called Masbagik, which is famous for being Lombok’s main pottery producing village.
Perama Tour Bus

Pottery Demonstration
The Village's Pottery Warehouse
We finally boarded and set sail with a quick briefing and no safety procedures what so ever. It was an old boat painted in the company colours of red and white with a dining area that served us some pretty decent breakfasts, lunches and dinners, even if each meal was pretty much the same. There also a small roof deck where you could relax while sailing when it wasn’t raining or blowing a howler and the boat had some rather small cabins. Being us we chose the cheaper fun option of sleeping on deck which turned out to be in the dining room once the table had been winched into the ceiling.
The Perama Pirate Ship

The Cabin Runway

Guests Chilling On Deck
Over the next three days we sailed north east of Lombok across a number of islands where we dropped anchor. These included the Perama Resort which was great fun even though a little cloudy. Here we enjoyed some snorkelling, beach volley ball, replanting coral and an amazing BBQ around a camp fire that included tuna steak. It was a great ice breaker where the twenty people on the tour could relax and get to know each other over a couple of Anker Beers, the cabin crew’s choice (tasting notes to follow in Flores). Speaking of the crew they even entertained us with some tradition Indonesian line dancing. We didn’t have a clue what was going on but embarrassing yourself in front of new friends seemed to work a treat.
Checking out the washed up coral on Perama Resort

Staff getting the BBQ underway

Camp-fire sing along and Anker Beer 
On our list of island visits was Satonda Island, which was a stunning island with a giant salt water lake that had been made from a volcanic eruption many moons ago. We were able to hike into the jungle for some stunning views in flip-flops as always before taking a plunge. It is suppose to be easy to float in salt water. Just not for me. I have come to realise that I am what you might call a sinker. I just can’t float without flapping my legs and arms around like an idiot. More snorkelling was also enjoyed and the sun made an appearance on day two, which was a blessing even if it was just for one afternoon. Day two ended up being a long day out at sea, where we set sale in the afternoon in order to arrive at Komodo Island the following morning, for what should have been the highlight.
Out at sea surrounded by Volcanic Islands


Passing one of hundreds of lush green islands

Welcome to Satonda Island
The giant salt lake after the flip-flop trek
As the sunset on day two the weather changed and we headed towards a storm that you could see in the distance. It was an experience and one that Kate won’t forget in a hurry. Sea sickness kicked in and for hours the boat rocked from side to side, backwards and forwards and the heavy rain pelted the vessel. It was pretty scary stuff, but amazing at the same time watching in the darkness out on deck and the lightening lit up the islands surrounding us.
We spent most of the night on deck at the back of the boat where it has less movement praying it would end. Food was the last thing on our minds and serving the food was a whole new skill to be learnt. It was impossible even to stand in the dining room never mind eat and drink. It was close to feeling blind drunk where you just want to lie down anywhere. Eventually the lights of fishing on the horizon directed us closer to land. This is when we found out that the rudder on the boat had broken. A part was needed and one of the crew ended up getting badly stung by a jelly fish while diving to take care of the repairs. He was rushed to hospital and this set our sailing back a number of hours. We did finally set sail again during the night to be awoken by a splash of water in the face. The ocean was coming into the decks sleeping area where twelve people including myself and Kate were squashed together on the floor in rows. Something must of happened because I passed out again to awake with the sun up and the ocean calm. With the storm finally passed we can look forward to the final day. I now have no idea why people choose to sail around the world on their own. Just madness!
The tour was called Hunting for Komodo by Camera and the third and final day was where we entered the island of Komodo to see the dragons. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, we set out on a 5km trek with guides holding huge Y shaped wooden forks for protection. The landscape ended up being quite nice but the tour itself turned out to be a total disaster. We didn’t manage to see any Komodo Dragons. This of course is disappointing but understandable. They are wild animals. The guides were the disappointment with no passion or knowledge about the Komodo. They seemed more interested in who had girlfriends etc and they kept telling us not to worry, we will see the dragon’s at the restaurant! We soon found out at the end of the trek what they meant. Next to the restaurant were two old Komodo Dragons. They were docile and just looked almost dead lying next to piles of rubbish. It was quite upsetting and so un-natural especially when there were deer everywhere and no interest from the dragons. Apparently the guides feed these two scraps from the kitchen for the tourists. Quite unbelievable and I am pretty sure not what UNESCO had in mind. The trips highlight therefore turned out to be pants and this was the group’s general consensus.
We finally arrive on Komodo for the grand finale
The group waiting in the bush on the 5km trek-Hunting for Komodo by Camera not so much
Deer everywhere!
Poor Komodo Dragon not interested! Not how we wanted to see our first with the rubbish.
A little flat we set sail on the final part of the journey to Flores and it was the morning of New Years Eve 2010, not quite how we expected to be spending our time. It did pick up in the afternoon, where we enjoyed some awesome reef snorkelling at Red Beach apparently one of the best sites in the world, which was followed by some diving off the boat and the crazy Spanish climbing to the top of the sail before jumping, Pirates of the Caribbean stuff. It was a shame that I didn’t take Kate literally when she told me that there was shit in the water before I decided to dive in. No wonder I was nearly sick after a mouthful of the sea water (Floating Crap and Urine). OH MY GOD!!!
Red Beach and Snorkelling couldn't hide the disappointment of Komodo Island
Reedy diving into the toilet should cheer everybody up!
Just thought I would prove we were actually on this tour
It was time to get off this boat once and for all. We finally arrived in Flores at 7pm and climbed off before finding our own accommodation. We checked into Gardena Guest House and had the most amazing shower ever. Three days at sea will do that to you. With a choice to make we made our way back to the boat for the farewell/NYE party. It didn’t end up being quite the party we had hoped for especially when they set sail in order to refill the water system. Too much for Mr Reed I had the crew take us back to shore. Most people had the same idea. I don’t think the guys from Perama Tours could organise a piss up in a brewery. Not all at a loss it was great to say bye to the guys that had been with us on the trip and we brought in the New Year with Chris who now lived in Singapore and his parents who were visiting from England. We had an enjoyable time and a number of Ankor Beer while watching the fireworks over the Flores harbour. Not bad at all.
The Sign we needed to SEE...

Happy to be back on dry land with a bottle of Ankor Beer. Not much choice
New Year's Eve Fireworks over the Harbour
Overall the boat trip was OK and fun at times. Perama are supposed to be the best company. Maybe not reaching our expectations but it does make you wonder how bad the other companies are, and these things are not cheap. The disappointment of Komodo was the main issue and we had travelled a long way to see the dragons. Maybe all is not lost. One question remains. Can we see them anywhere else?
Happy New Year and good luck to you all in 2011...
XX

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