Delhi-The Indian Goodbye, Next Stop Malaysia (Kingfisher Strong, King's Black Label)

After another night in Siliguri we set ourselves for the final leg of our journey back to New Delhi Station and thank you India because it didn’t let the entertainment and bewilderment stop even for a second.  Starting with the infamous Mahananda Express being five hours late we climbed aboard and got settled for a long expected thirty one hours. Unfortunately the service ended up taking forty four hours. That’s right one night’s accommodation onboard turned into two nights and we must have had the same driver as the one from Varanasi because it still confuses me how a train looses fourteen hours moving in a forward direction. It was a great farewell to the thousands of Kilometres covered during our two and a half months in this most amazing country. We even had the company of mice and a 3am fight in our carriage where a group of locals had a mobile phone stolen by a staff member. They taught him a lesson before he was lead away by armed guards. Not our place to get involved!!!

44 hours-Top Bunk 3AC. Nice...

Anyway tired dirty and at the Old Delhi Railway Station instead of the New Delhi Railway station we arrived with a day to spare before our flight to Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur. At least this gave us one last bartering tirade and a final farewell ride in a rickshaw. I think I will miss these little three wheel things once we are gone. The rest as they say is history or nearly!!!

Oh these little things will be missed especially with non of the metre's working!

Back home to The Vivek Hotel with time for some laundry, packing, farewells and a last supper. This was where the gang known as the Sunrise, Temple or Train Crew went their separate ways following a gruelling four weeks on the road. After the last couple of journeys I think we will close proceedings as the Train Crew.

Last of the Indian Street Food, Fried Potatioes, Lush

A fitting last supper dessert. Named God Save the Queen!

Don’t worry though. I will be leaving this part of our World Adventure with two final Indian beers, Kingfisher Strong and King's Black Label from Goa. That’s right I didn’t forget about the one that got away and even though I never managed to get my hands on it our good friend Oz managed to and he got us all a snap. Good man!

Kingfisher Strong

Kingfisher Strong Premium Beer comes from the house of United Breweries Limited. The brand was launched in 1999 to cater to the growing Strong Beer segment in the country. It has been the fastest growing beer brand in the country.

Kingfisher Strong combines the unique taste and quality of Kingfisher in a Strong Beer and is positioned on the similar platform as the mother brand, Kingfisher Premium. The tagline used for communicating the positioning platform is “Same Taste. Extra Dum”! Can you believe that?

Kingfisher Strong has a national footprint and is among the top 3 strong beer brands in almost every state in the India.

The beer itself is a light tasting, easy drinking beer with plenty of malt. It goes down really well. If not a little too well, especially with it containing around 8% Abv. It is fast growing in popularity and I can understand this with it having more flavour than the regular Kingfisher Premium, which has 4.8% Abv.

Kingfisher Strong Ad Campaigne

King's Black Label

The beautiful beaches of Goa and King's Beer go hand in hand. This beer, which unfortunately is only brewed and sold in the state of Goa, is a highlight of any trip there. The King's Black Label premium pilsner, 4.85% Abv is a very light tasting, pale coloured, beer that's known for its smoky malt aroma. You should be able to find it at most beach shacks, liquor stores. I somehow didn’t manage to do that. So no wonder Kings remains a fond memory for many people long after the vacation is over! Just not me, with everywhere being out of stock when in Goa. Fingers crossed for next time even though Oz was not a huge fan!

King's Black Label-Cheers Oz! (Sort your pouring out and the glass is all wrong)!

I am not very good at saying goodbyes and the great nation of Indian will be massively missed. Even with all the ups and downs along the way the place is just mind blowing.

The food has been great and we would like to thank everywhere that we ever ate because we have not been ill once as expected. Quite remarkable really! You see not cleaning your kitchen at home must have its benefits when travelling. Only joking there I am very anal.

When it comes to the beer I suppose it would be fair of me to be truthful. It has been a blast trying as many different beers as possible along the way. They have all been enjoyable in their own little way. However, saying that the quality is average at best. So no need yet for Belgium, Germany or the Czech Republic to worry.

India is now the second most developing nation on earth.    Just not in brewing beer. What will South East Asia throw our way? So excited to find out see you all there and I really do hope if anybody is actually reading this that you have enjoyed travelling around India with me and Kate. We will be looking to indulge your minds with more Beer, Food, Travel and Culture.

I will now find some parting words to sum up India as we bid it a cheery fair well!

Where you from?

What’s your name?

How long you stay?  When you arrive?

Where are you going?  Where you staying?

You Married?  When you have children?

I have a shop?

Rickshaw?

Change Money?

Looking is free...come back...promise?

Hashish?  Ricvkshaws? Hotel???

A million times per day....

YOU JUST CAN’T MAKE THIS SHIT UP!!!

Cheers

Next stop Malaysia..............................................

Darjeeling, The Himalayas & The Birthplace of British Tea (Kalyani Black Label)

A night was needed in Siliguri before we departed in the back of a jeep with our rucksacks tired to the roof. Another bonus was that our jeep was the only one with tread on the tires. A two hour journey up the mountain brought us to the hill station town of Darjeeling at an altitude of 2500m and we were so excited to finally be here. Busy streets built on the vertical slopes surrounded by breathtaking green mountain sides. The whole place had a charming feeling with a large Nepalese and Tibetan influence. You could have been mistaken for thinking that you had actually left India. 

Squeezed into the Jeep heading to Darjeeling fron Siliguri. Rucksacks tied to the roof! 

Climbing through the hills

We had a busy few days ahead of us with plenty on the agenda. The streets were alive where you could not walk past a tea shop and in the main square we saw some local dance due to a festival. The food was great with Indian Dosa, the tea was amazingly smooth at the famous Nathmulls and we even found a couple of real bars including Joeys English pub and Buzz bar that introduced us to a new Indian brew, Kalyani Black Label.

Research & Dosa for lunch. We are still in India afterall!

Tea 2 Lad, Tea 2!!!

Great Service, Great Tea 

Thought I would show you Darjeeling

Festival Entertainment in the Main Square

Check out Joey's Pub & the water bottles attached to the ceiling to catch the rain!

Actually sat at a proper bar is just thrilling. Plus a special guest Kalyani Black Label Beer

Kalyani Black Label

Kalyani Black Label is one of India’s oldest lagers and is particular popular in eastern India. Don’t get me wrong my first impressions of Kalyani Black Label was the scruffy bottle but once past that it didn’t turn out too bad at all. Brewed by United Breweries like most beers here seem to be, Kalyani had a nice nose of citrus and corn. The taste was crisp and bittersweet but much lighter than its 8% Abv would suggest which made it surprisingly easy drinking. The sweetness of the malt did linger for a time but was backed up with a dry, hoppy finish. Overall in the world of beer it probably wouldn’t stand up with a lot of its category members but in the Indian market one of the better, more enjoyable tipples. I would definitely recommend if you are visiting the eastern province of India.

Kalyani Black Label

The only downside was climbing back up the mountain from town to your accommodation at altitude before the 9am curfew kicked in.

Forget the Fort Crew or Temple Crew we are now officially the sunrise crew. Up again this morning at 3.30am we head off to Tiger Hill to watch the most amazing sunrise over the Himalayas. It was a freezing, beautiful clear day where we were able to see Kanchenjunga the world's third-highest peak (28,168ft) and even got a special glimpse of the mighty Everest. The world's highest peak. Awesome!!! Even if there was another thousand people fighting to get a good viewing point. Our driver then took us to a Buddhist Temple before arriving back at our base for a couple of hour’s kip. 3.30am is just way too early...

The crowds brace themselves for daylight at Tiger Hill 

The Sun Rising over the Himalayas

& the crowd goes WILD!!!

The World's Third-Highest Peak of Kanchenjunga

A glimse of Mighty Everest (The Peak in the Middle)!!!

A beautiful Buddhist Monestary to end the mornings escapades!

Happy Valley Tea Plantation was a must visit where a beautiful old lady taught us about tea and served us a 5 second brew in her master class. Happy Valley is the suppliers for Harrods in London.

The Tea Plantation to Happy Valley

The Passionate Expert. You just wanted to wrap her up and take her home?

Masterclass over. We enjoy a splended 5 second brew as experts with Pinky's

Tea Pickers of Happy Valley, where even the tea is Happy!!! 

The Himalayan Zoo was next where we managed to see Tigers in captivity, where they look to breed back into the wild which is a positive step and good news. Within the zoo grounds was also the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was so interesting taking you through the history of Everest summit climbs with fascinating memorabilia on display. Including some of Edmund Hillary's who was the first to conquer Everest in 1953.

If you could describe yourself as an animal waht would you be? I would be a Tiger x

One activity high on our agenda and a big reason for taking the time to visit Darjeeling was to travel on the famous steam powered Toy Train. We travelled for two hours on a return journey to the nearby town of Goom. The mini train is set on two feet of track that winds around the mountain and has recently become a new UNESCO World Heritage Site Member.

The Darjeeling Railway (Toy Train)

Must be the smallest train in the world

Nice to see the track being fixed before we carry on with our journey



Refuelling



The Toy Train parked up in Goom before the return leg!

Around Darjeeling are just beautiful walks with amazing scenery wherever you are. We visited Observatory Hill with hundreds of prayer flags and Buddhist worship, not to mention getting scared off by the local monkeys. Especially after meeting Chris and Tracy from Cheshire, over a beer at Buzz Bar. A Couple of days previously Chris had unbelievably been attacked and bitten by one of the monkeys on his back. A great battle scar, don’t get me wrong but just didn’t help my monkey phobia.

Darjeeling landscape from every angle

Just admiring it for the 100th time!

Buddhist Prayer Flags at Observatory Hill

Remember I told you all that India is here to teach us TOLERANCE!!!

Just before leaving Darjeeling to head back into the world of India we treked down to the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre. The centre was one of the most fascinating places we had visited with a community lost in exile from their home land.  It was amazing to see the industry and creativity on show in their workshops from fabrics to carvings.

Exactly what it says on the roof!

Showing my respect at the centre

Just amazing seeing the carpet and textile weeving!

Wood carving in progress!

Tibetan Industry

To sum Darjeeling up in words would do it an injustice. The place is just breathtaking and gives you a glimpse into life in Nepal.  A new addition to our holiday destination list for the future! That pretty much brings our time in India to a close. We just have to get back to Delhi in time for our flight. Bring on the return of the Mahananda Express. Surely three days would be long enough even though our final journey on the Indian sub-continent is scheduled to be only thirty one hours!!!  

Before I go I will remind you to break out the fine Darjeeling Tea, pop the kettle on...

read a paradox of our age by The Dalai Lama!!!

Varanasi-Life, Death & Reedy's Birthday (Haywards 5000, Kingfisher Red, Royal Challenge)

We had heard that Varanasi was one crazy place with no other place like it on the planet earth. It turns out that they were right, from the minute we arrived.  The city is a maze and it took us hours to find somewhere to stay. Luckily the rickshaw driver was great. Maybe we had a little more pressure on us this time with my birthday fast approaching.

One of the Mazed Streets ready for the Diwali Festival

Varanasi is known for a criminal underworld where walking the labyrinth streets at night is a no go area. One of the hotels staff therefore offered to take us to the Ghats of the River Ganges to help find our bearings but nothing could have prepared us for our introduction to Varanasi.

Our first view of the Ganges River

Next to the small cremation Ghat. Not ready for what came next

We entered at the small cremation Ghat for what turned out to be an amazingly overpowering emotional experience, as we watched family and friends carry their loved ones on ceremonial prepared stretches. The bodies were then submerged into the Ganges to be cleansed before being placed on the wood previously bought by the family with the amount of wood depending on the family’s wealth. The families try to hide their emotion as not to disturb the karma before the ritual followed by the lighting of the wood where the cremation then takes place on the bank of the River Ganges or locally known as the Ganga.

It was important for us to have somebody with us that could explain the significance of what was happening to give it important meaning. People travel from all over the world to both wash in the Ganges and to die in Varanasi. We were told about a lady who is now 105 years old. She has been waiting for 35 years.

It was incredibly moving and emotional and showed the power of religious faith. Throwing us all off our stride for the rest of the evening we processed what we had seen and decided to get some shut eye. It’s my 31^st birthday tomorrow.

Happy birthday Reedy as the alarm sounded at 4am, for our sunrise boat trip along the Ganges River. The sunrise over the Ganges was wonderful watching people go about their daily business of washing, bathing and prayer. Again life and death become one as a new day begins with the most amazing sunrise we had ever seen. We were also able to light floating candles down the river in remembrance for loved ones lost. The spirituality of Varanasi is just so powerful it absorbs you every minute and will surely be a life changing experience for the four of us.

Just about to head out for Sunrise on the Ganges River

5am, candles burning and good to go...

Making our Spiritual Offerings



The Most Amazing Sunrise You Will Ever See

The local's day starts at the river





Back to my 31^st Birthday, my early midlife crisis in full swing. A great day was had by everyone full of surprises for the birthday boy from gifts at breakfast and chocolate pancake as a birthday cake for lunch with an oversized candle attached. The gang had been busy sneaking around behind my back for the past couple of weeks to buy presents. No wonder Danny took me for a beer while the girls went for a wonder in Karma Sutra!!!



Prezzie Time. The sneaky buggers!!!



Getting around the hard way! Please don't fall I don't think the water is very clean!



Happy Birthday to Me! That Candle is MASSIVE...

Evening celebrations was a splash out for the backpackers heading to a swanky hotel called Saya where we dined in the picturesque gardens with amazing food, Mojito cocktails and some new beers for sampling. We even ended up in the bar to enjoy a hookah pipe.



Looks at us living it up. POSH TIMES



Bindi Time & The Cocktails are just out of shot

The Boys enjoying everything. We have seriously got to communicate what we are going to wear!

Removing labels even on my birthday. Now there's dedication to the cause. You shouls see the scrap book!

A great Birthday. Cheers guys xx

Haywards 5000

This brand brewed by SABMiller India was launched in 1983 and is most well known for its Haywards 5000 label. The most popular of the portfolio.  Synonymous with strong beer in India that has a 7% Abv. Brewed with Indian Malt and 6 Row Hops this golden yellow brew has a full bodied malty flavour.

Haywards also produces Haywards 2000, a mild beer with 5.5% Abv, and the rarer super strong Haywards 10000. Lovers of stout beer may be interested in Haywards Black. India's first genuine Stout Beer. It has a strong dark colour, with 8% Abv, and a heavy sweet malty taste that apparently hints of caramel. Unfortunately I have not managed to sample that one yet!!!

Haywards 5000 & The Birthday Eye's following a Mojito!

Kingfisher Red

Until now, beer lovers like us maybe thought we couldn’t drink the same beer 365 days of the year. No matter how much you wished, there may have been occasions when you felt like having a beer but not something chilled. What am I talking about? Beer lovers like us would drink many different types of beers all year long. That’s the point!!! So taking another angle!  An idea from Kingfisher for people who don’t like different types of beers was to produce a fermented beverage you can drink 365 days of the year! Whenever, wherever, irrespective of the season and the weather. This beer would be Kingfisher Red. ‘The first all year round beer’, whatever that means?

Kingfisher Red, a Premium Gravity beer (7% Abv), is specially brewed to give you a distinctive taste with a slight caramelized, oaky woody flavour with some bitterness, which tastes great when chilled and even better when not chilled?  It is an artistically crafted beer inspired by the traditional brewing practices of medieval European monks. The monks followed a typical process for making their beer & then matured it in oak barrels.

Kingfisher Red is so developed following a unique process whereby the beer is rich deep golden amber colour and can be consumed even at 14 to 17 Degree Celsius without any change in the taste of the beer. I must now admit that I only tried it chilled but was pleasantly surprised. By far the best tasting beer, from the Kingfisher conveyer belt. 

Kingfisher Red. A little fuzzy but it was my Birthday!

Royal Challenge

Royal Challenge Premium is a mild beer containing 5% Abv. It's most popular in the states of Andhra Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, and Orissa. The beer has a long brewing cycle, giving rise to its slogan of "Brewed Longer, Brewed Better". In comparison to many Indian beers, it's quite a full bodied and tasty beer. It's not as flavoursome as the Kalyani Black Label, but is still distinctive, which will get to in Darjeeling.

Another brand brewed by SABMiller in India launched in the year 1993. The Award Winning Royal Challenge Premium Lager is the second largest selling mild beer in India. Royal Challenge is brewed with the choicest six malt barley. Its long brew duration provides it with a distinct, smooth taste and rich flavour. It has all the hall marks of a great beer. Colour that is golden honey, taste that is smooth and crisp. Royal Challenge Premium Lager is said to be the beer for the discerning who have the confidence to make their choices based on their superior taste and knowledge rather than follow the crowd.  
The brand has moved from strength to strength since its re-launch by SABMiller India and has set itself on a growth momentum that is well ahead of the mild beer industry.

Overall not a bad brew. Quite enjoyable with a smooth flavour. Moves nicely away from the more watery blonde lagers.

Royal Challenge. Notice the Shirt Change!

http://www.sabmiller.in/

It was a great night and a good end to my birthday but apologies for saying we splashed out. The bill was about £9 each. We should do this every night.

Celebrations over and hangovers cured we pack up and move out to the train station for our onward journey towards Darjeeling in the eastern corner of India bordering Nepal. A 16 hour journey already mentally prepared for, or so we thought. Now let’s just take a minute as I know I have gone on about some bad journeys in the past. Let’s scrap them right now. Here goes.

A one hour 12km rickshaw journey to the station and we arrive at 7pm in time for our departure to Siliguri at 9.20pm, to find that straight away the Mahananda Express service was already delayed by 12 hours. Stuck for what to do now we head back to Varanasi to check back into the hotel (another hour with 4 people plus bags crammed into one rickshaw), to be told by the owner ‘why did you book that train it is always late’. Cheers for that mate. That might have helped us 3 weeks ago!!! It wasn’t all doom and gloom as tonight was the start of the Diwali festival, the festival of light where we ended up being able to see the thousands of fireworks being let off into the sky. We get bonfire night after all. Well we had to really with my middle name being Guy after Guy Faulks.

Up in the morning early doors the hotel owner informed us that he had phoned ahead and that the train was on time for 9.20am. That was very nice of him! Oh how wrong he was. We arrived once again on time to find out that the train was delayed a further 5 hours and so the fun began. We ended up spending 13 hours going out of minds with the local rats being told every half hour that it was on its way but they had no idea where it was. An AWOL train must be a first. But we were told that the driver was bad at time keeping. My guess is he was driving backwards. 10pm arrived and unbelievably just before deciding that it was never going to show up, it did. A full twenty five hours late. Hysteria had set in by this point and another couple from Russia that we had met watched that days train pass us by and jokingly said ’do you know what! I think I will wait for yesterdays train’. At least we still had some humour.

When we boarded the train it was clear this was the train that India had forgotten, before realising we were catching the same train back to Delhi in a week’s time. Panic set in but at least we were closer to visiting Darjeeling and a nice cup of tea. Or the best cup of tea in the world. Never mind the tea. A stiff drink or cold beer will be needed once we finally arrived. Sorry no pictures of the day from hell. Far to stressed out to even consider it.